Velvet technology for bringing out the best of difficult materials

Yamazaki Velvet’s main product is double velvet produced with the face-to-face method. The process involves connecting two layers of weave structure, called the “ground,” with loops made from the pile thread, which will ultimately form the raised surface, and then slicing through the middle with a blade to create two layers of velvet cloth simultaneously. Yamazaki Velvet handles difficult materials, such as extremely short or long fibers, and silk prone to pilling, making full use of long cultivated cutting techniques and customized machines. Thanks to a network of highly skilled craftsmen at dyeing and processing factories, the company produces velvet cloth found nowhere else.

Karamiori leno weave that creates a sheer, crisp texture

Fubisha Textiles produces two types of Karamiori leno weave: Sha and Ro. The Sha weave involves twisting a pair of warp threads while passing the weft thread through the openings. This creates gaps in the woven cloth that allow air to pass through freely. The Ro is a variant in which the pair of warp threads interlace every seventh weft thread or every third weft thread. The finished cloths are called 7-weft Ro (nanahon-ro) and 3-weft Ro (sanbon-ro), respectively.

Nureyoko Habutae born of the unique climate of Fukui

Higashino Tokichi Orimono specializes in Nureyoko Habutae, which combines the two techniques of Habutae and Nureyoko. Whereas the basic plain weave comprises a crisscross of one warp thread and one weft thread, Habutae uses a pair of fine untwisted warp threads to produce a lightweight and yet strong weave. Nureyoko is the technique of moistening the weft thread while weaving, to create a dense cloth with a texture that is smooth, firm, and lustrous. The latter was born of Fukui’s uniquely humid climate. The company uses vegetable dyeing, which works well with silk, and other dyeing methods according to use.